Hot Topic
This is the Barrelhorses.com "Training and Learning Arena".

On this page you will find answers to visitor questions about barrel racing.
Remember the more you know the better you will be.
Questions are answered by Marlene Eddleman McRae,
a World Champion Barrel Racer from Colorado.

The archives of the Hot Topic listed at the bottom of this page.  Enjoy.

Marlene Responded:
Dear Kim
I am a bit confused where you state that your horse gets heavy on the harsh bits since it should work the other way. What many consider a harsh bit is no more than a training tool that allows the rider to correct a developing problem before it becomes a major problem. Most “harsh bits” are not, they appear harsh so many assume that they are.

One quick mention is to have your horses teeth floated once a year by an Equine Dentist. Ask around your area o at professional barns where trainers train who they use and what they think. This will assist you in attaining the best for the job. Most Veterinarians can float teeth, but do not like to so find a specialist like an Equine Dentist to do the job completely.

It is true that you will lose flex and bend with a “heavier” bit because most often this is a bit with a longer shank. The basics of bits is: the longer the shanks the more “whoa” and the shorter the shanks the more bend or flex. Mouthpieces apply pressure in different areas for different effects also. I prefer two and three piece mouth bits made using twisted, sweet iron. Mouth guards are important when you are using a bit that “gags”, or moves on the shank, so that pinching will not occur. It is very important that your bit is adjusted properly in your horse’s mouth for it to operate correctly. Adjust your headstall (which adjusts your bit) so that there is a wrinkle, or a “smile”, on both sides of your horse’s mouth where the mouthpiece touches.

You do mention several times what your horse does and doesn’t like, but I suggest asking yourself what you want from your horse and then accomplishing it. If you actually had the ability to ask a horse what he wants I am afraid the answer would be to be turned out on grass all day and never ridden or handled, however this is not an option since we do not have a sufficient welfare program for horses and they have to work for a living (most of them). Just like children you have to exercise some tough love once in a while and lay down ground rules, but you also must be able to accomplish your end of the deal. If you feel the problems are getting out of hand I suggest you contact a professional trainers, not necessarily a barrel horse trainer, for additional assistance.

Get your equipment correct, get it adjusted properly and then change as needed to get the proper response from your horse. Demand perfection and you just may get it.

Good luck,

Marlene

Marlene Responded:
Please read the past Hot topics for a wealth of information regarding this, and many other, important subjects.
Good luck,
Marlene

Marlene Responded:
Dear Janelle
Please read the past Hot topics for a wealth of information regarding this, and many other, important subjects.
Good luck,
Marlene

Marlene Responded:
Thank you for your compliments! At 12 years old I believe your horses hyper attitude is just his way. I have seen where people really worked on these types of horses to calm them down and once they accomplish this the horse has no fire and will not compete. I further suggest that you make every effort to warm this horse up prior to competing in order to keep him at his best. I have gone so far at small arena type rodeos as hauling my horse to another location, warming him up sufficiently and then hauling back to the small arena to compete. You can also warm up at home if the competition is not too far away and then haul to it. This has worked very well for me.

Some horses walk in and then go compete, but it is rare. Barrel horses as a whole are ready to go when it is their turn and being ready is a good thing when running against time.
Take care,
Marlene

The problem that frustrated me most was my horse losing his forward motion while moving around a barrel.  He would go to his first barrel feeling nice and flexible, and become stiff as a board coming off of the turn.

I am experiencing some health problems right now, so I took the advice of a close friend and sent my horse to a trainer while I get the rest I need.  After riding my horse for a short period of time, the trainer showed me how sore my horse's back was.    She is experienced with equine therapy, and she has the equipment, so after a few days of treatment my horse feels much better.  She is beginning to work him at a slow pace to keep him from throwing his back out.

His saddle fits (the pad leaves no dry spots from pinching), his legs were fine when x-rayed, and he is fed Omolene, Strategy, electrolytes, strongid c, alfalfa, and grass hay.

My questions:
Is this usually a problem that continues?
Can I do anything with my horses diet to help him?
Will this lead to something more severe?
Thanks,
Lisa

Marlene Responded:
Dear Lisa

My question is the problem fixed? What caused this horse to develop chronic back soreness? I feel there is a place for alternate therapies, but I truly believe it is much more important to find out what the cause of problems is rather than just a quick fix. I have never had a horse “that’s back was being thrown out” or needed treatments to help the problem so I am very concerned about your (your horses) situation.

I know I get redundant here, but I suggest a visit to a highly skilled, equine only practicing Veterinarian that comes highly recommended from the best horseman in your area. Have a full soundness exam since most all back soreness comes from a lower limb unsoundness unless directly associated with saddle pad and saddle fit.

Good luck,
Marlene

I HAVE A FIVE YEAR OLD PAINT THAT HAS BEEN WORKING GREAT WITH AN O RING
ROPE NOSE BAND. I STARTED ASKING FOR SPEED AND HE STARTED RUNNING RIGHT
THRU IT.
I'VE NEVER HAD A PROBLEM STOPPING HIM UNTIL LATELY.  LAST SHOW HE TOOK
HIS HEAD BEHIND THE 1ST BARREL AND WENT (TRIED TO GO BACK OUT THE GATE).
I MADE HIM RUN THE PATTERN BUT FELT I HAD NO REAL CONTROL.  HE HAS BEND
SO I WENT HOME AND LOOKED THRU MY BITS AND FOUND A GAG BIT WITH ROPE NOSE
BAND WITH A DOG-BONE IN THE MIDDLE WITH 5" SHANKS HE WORKS GREAT AT HOME
BUT HAVEN'T CARRIED HIM TO A SHOW.  IS THIS BIT TO MUCH OR WHAT DO I NEED
TO GO TO.  I ATTENDED YOUR CLINIC WITH THIS O'RING BIT WHEN HE WAS GOING
SLOW.  BUT I KNOW I NEED TO CHANGE JUST DON'T KNOW WHAT TO NEXT  I
REALIZE THE LITTLEST DIFFERENCE CAN MAKE ALL THE DIFFERENCE.  PLEASE
ADVICE HE HAS SO MUCH POWER LEAVING THE BARRELS AND I KNOW I'M NOT ASKING
ENOUGH OF HIM AND HOLDING HIM BACK OF HIS FULL POTENTIAL FOR FEAR OF
LOSING CONTROL.
THANKS
MICHELLE

Marlene Responded:
Dear Michelle

I like to go from a ring snaffle into the Marlene Bit (see the World Champion Designs catalog), as it is the next step up. Too much time spent in a snaffle bit will cause horses to get too chargy and will lose control. It is important to use enough bit to keep your hand soft while maintaining adequate control.

Use your legs coming around the first barrel to keep your horse going correctly. When a horse wants to head back towards the entrance gate around the first barrel. Use your outside leg to drive him back into position. We can pull all day long, but this does not help the situation. The cure is to drive with your legs while merely positioning your horse’s head with your hands. Watch your own videos and I bet you will see two very still legs.

Take care,
Marlene

Marlene Responded:
Dear Michelle

All you have to do is use your legs to move him off the barrels. It is important that you only use our hands for positioning your horse's head and keep his shoulders from dropping while using your legs to push him forward and move laterally. This method is much more desirable since there is much less pressure and movement to your horses mouth placing his concentration more on his job and not your hands.

Good luck,
Marlene

Iam confused about how to get my 9yo mare to use her hind end whenturning.  I have been turning in small circles and large circles, usingthe fence to turn against, trying to put her on a cow, etc.  She willengage her hindquarters only about a 10th of the time!  I have beenworking on this for about 7 months with almost no improvement.

DoI need to flex her neck when trying to teach this (with her nose towards theinside as if I'm going around a barrel)?  Or do I tip her nose toheoutside when trying to teach this and keep her neck more straight?  Or isthe problem that she won't move off of leg pressure well enough?

Iwant to get her turns more like a rollback instead of her swinging her reararound the barrel.

HELP!!

Thanks,
Ashley

Marlene Responded:
Dear Ashley

Actually doing a rollback is the incorrect way for a barrel horse to turn a barrel. This method causes too much stress on the horse physically while lso being a hindrance on hard, slick ground. The horses that I have riddenhat do roll back when turning a barrel feel horrible to ride, as the control factor is minimal. Hitting barrels on the way out is also a problem since his style influences the horse to become stiff coming out and they will catch a barrel with their hip. The correct method is to slow down as you approach the barrel while gathering your horse, have a pocket (distance) between your horse's body and the barrel of approx. three to five feet, position your horses nose towards the barrel while using your legs to push him forward and move him towards or away from the barrel.

A nine year old should most certainly know how to stop by placing its hind end under itself. To teach this now will be a chore, as you are finding. Most ofthe methods you have described work in teaching a horse to use more hind end, however I am confused regarding your question and statements regarding tipping her nose while accomplishing these moves. Basically you are just trying to teach her to stop by sliding on her hind end. Normally working with a fence to walk, trot and lope up to and teaching stop will help along with working cattle in an arena off the fences. If you are still having difficulty with these methods something is wrong that I cannot see from my computer screen. Bottom line: I am confused what it is exactly you are trying to accomplish so I am fairly confident your horse is confused also. Schedule a lesson with a local professional horse trainer in your area for more help.

Take care,
Marlene

I have placed my answers within your questions:

Hi.I have a 15 year old appendix quartehorse. I have a couple questions
for you that pretty much everyone is giving me different answers to. The
first, would you say my horse is to old to start barrel racing in the
"big league"?

I would say that you need get started and see how your horse does. The "big league" to me is professional rodeo competition and your success through the beginning will dictate whether you and your horse are really ready to progress further.

Ihave gotten anwers both yes and no. Personally I thought it was in the horses mental and pysical health as to whether he could handle it or not. The second, he has high withers and can't get my saddle to sit right no matter hat pad I put on. My saddle constantly slides back and seems like the breast collar is choking him. When I take his breastcollar off and let him run he stretches out more, but my saddle slides. What are your suggestions?

My suggestion is to purchase a saddle that fits. The breast collar is not designed to hold your saddle in place. If you have a saddle that is pulling on your breast collar the saddle does not fit properly and a solution must be found. As you have experienced, a tight breast collar will and does affect a horse's ability to stretch out, extend their shoulders and run, so it must all fit and function properly. Go to www.LoneTreeRanch.comand see my Special Effx Saddles for more.

Andthe last is he doesnt want to come off his barrels very fast. And when he does he takes a really wide turn. but if he comes off slow he has a gorgous turn. I have work him on this extensive amount of hours doing it slow. I dont know what to do and am stuck with everything. Please help me.

Many times hesitation coming off of the barrels is caused by the rider pulling on the reins to balance themselves. Watch videos of yourself and make corrections for mistakes. The fit of your saddle may have much to do with this also since it is pulling back on the breast collar. If the pull is very much it can actually hinder the horse's ability to breath. Get your equipment right and then watch for mistakes in your riding.
 

Good luck,
Marlene

I am inquiring about barrel training for my horse. He is the only 4 yr GO MAN GO, LEO bred stallion left in the contential US.

Hold on is he a grandson, great grandson or how far back on the Leo part? Regarding the only four-year-old Go Man Go/Leo bred stallion left in the US is probably abit exaggerated until fully investigated.

He his 15.3 and 1100lbs has a wonderful mind and is correct. He is AAA track bred in the purple and I purchased him from Texas where he was bred andaised.

We do not use AAA ratings much anymore since speed index has replaced his with amuch better gauge of speed. In the purple means royal breeding which generally is only used in the thorobred world. And although I like Texas, I do not if it qualifies as an attribute for the place to buy a horse.

Which if I understand this correctly, makes him eligiable for those futurities?

If he was nominated correctly in each futurity he is eligible.ach organization has different policies and methods so all must be adheredo. To say since he was bred and raised in Texas he is eligible for their futurities is much to general a statement.

He has excellant ground/arena manners. Has stood only to my very small quality bred cattle/track mares. You can lead him out of a pasture of in season mares without any dingy, dangerous behavior displays. From the moment I purchased him I have worked to keeping this horse quiet, sane and tractable. He is not spoiled or ill tempered. I do not tolerate those types of behaviorn my horses. I sincerely believe this is a world caliber horse and preffer he have the best trainers available to him. I, myself, am not talented enough in the saddle quite frankly, to do this horse justice. I am truely impressed with you and believe you are the absoulute best person/s to train,and compete on him.

Marlene Responded:
Thank you for your confidence. He does sound like a nice stallion. How far along is he in his horsemanship training? Can he do a complete reining horse program successfully without resistance?

Hauling costs if additional to exhibition, I realize I would be responsible for any vet charges that may arise and entry fee's. Do you offer any type of percentage of winnings on horses you ride for your customers? Have you considered it?

I have and do, however you have a four year old that is not ready to compete, at least not at a highly competitive level. Your horse will most likely take 60 to 120 days of training at first and then come back for the competition portion where money winnings would be involved. I am not willing tomply much more than that until I have ridden your horse and can give you my honest opinion.

Ihope I have'nt driven you crazy with all the questions, I just need to be ableto plan accordingly.

Remember, the training and development of a young horse is expensive and very time consuming especially when hired out to a professional that is able to be up front and honest along the way. There are many out there that can take you (and your horse) for a ride, but please beware.

Thank you for your inquiry and take care,
Marlene

Marlene Responded:
Dear Wanda

I do not like the two hands around the barrels method for several reasons. First it tends to keep the riders weight well forward where we want it back. Watch those that ride with two hands and you will see they are always bent at the waist with their weight forward over the horses shoulders instead of back so their weight is more over the horses hip. Second it tends to let the rider use their hands too much to guide their horses instead of their legs. It is mostimportant to guide and direct your horse with your legs more than with your hands. Third it generally causes a horse to become stiff. Thiss where a horse does not bend and/or tip his head and body around the barrel he is turning.This can get out of control and cause many problems further own the road.

Through many years of training and competing I have found the one handed round the barrel method to work best. It keeps our horses subtle and in correct position while influencing us to use our legs properly. My method is two hands to the barrel and one hand around the barrel.

Good luck,
Marlene

Heather
Alabama

Marlene Responded:
Welcome to the world of barrel racing!  Barrel racing is a great sport for any age of rider, type of horse and level of experienceo enjoy.  To help you with each step towards success in barrel racing e now have available an excellent new video series for you. The Millennium Video Series with World Champion Marlene McRae is an easy to understand six video collection with each video explaining and demonstrating specific areas of barrel racing that you can then practice with your horse. The complete collection takes you from start to finish in developing your horse toaturity while maintaining proper technique, equipment, nutrition, condition and overall success.

The Millennium Video Series

1 Selection & Development of A Champion Horse (current video)
Marlene shows you how to successfully choose your next prospect and the necessary horsemanship maneuvers needed prior to competition training.

2 Starting Your Horse In Barrel Racing (all new video)
Marlene demonstrates the proper techniques for training your barrel racing horse for future success in competition. She also reviews leg protection,addle fit & conditioning for all horses.

3 The Finished Horse In Competition (revised Winning Edge 1)
A complete look at how to compete from hauling and stalling to preparingor the big race. Marlene explains her methods and why they work so well.

4 Exercises That Keep Your Horse Working Properly (all new video)
How to prevent bad habits and problems from forming. Marlene shows you how to keep your horse fresh and responsive through a variety of exercises.

5 Problems & Solutions (revised Winning Edge 2)
This is a step-by-step evaluation on problems that occur and how to fix them through technique, equipment and exercises. Marlene describes and demonstrates all indetail.

6 Horse Owner Shoeing & Feeding (all new video)
Doug McRae discusses the knowledge you as a Horse Owner must haven order for your horse to be properly shod without compromise. Marlene covers the nutritional needs of your horse including a thorough discussion on hay types and necessary supplements.

$34.95 each or the complete six video collection for $179.95
World Champion Designs for all your video and horse product needs at 1-800-542-8225
 

Remember that this is a simple event sokeep it that way for your horse and yourself by always practicing perfect andcreating good habits. This will giveyour horse confidence so that you can both perform to your maximum abilitieseach time you compete. Be patient with your, and your horses,progress and o not get in a hurry.  Anyspeed event has to be performed with all things working together, correctly. This is accomplished by lots of goodlowwork making sure your horse always understands what you are asking of them.I would also love to see you attend one ofmy clinics. This gives me an opportunity to view you and your horse first hand.We have had tremendous results from many who have watched my videos and thenattend a clinic. Marlene McRae

Visit Marlene's Web Site: www.barrelhorses.com/MEM/

Good luck!

Marlene Responded:
Dear Pat
A good size for an arena is 150' wide and 300' long. This size arena will also accommodate other speed events including roping events.The Women's Professional Rodeo Association's regulation pattern is 60' to the first barrel from the electric eye line, 90' between the first and second, and 105' between the second and third. I like the first and second barrel to be 18 to 20 feet off the fence and the third 25 to 30 feet off the back fence. The stopping distance from the electric eye line and the arena exit should be at least 50'. A good time on this size of pattern isn the 17 second range and an excellent run will be in the long 16 second range.  The tens and hundredth of seconds will depend upon how heavy theround is.

When training barrel horses the fences should not play a part in making the horse turn a barrel. My outdoor barrel racing area/pattern is in the center of 40 acres so fences do not play a roll in my horses performance. I realize this is not an option for everyone, but it sure does make better barrel horses.

From my calf roping husband: Set your calf roping chutes approx. 20 to 30 feet off the left fence. This allows the fence to help line your roping calves so they do not duck back to the left while in pursuit.

I feel that 75% sand and 25% clay/dirt mix is about right.  Washed construction grade sand and clay/dirt mixed will make for great footing. When it is perfect you can pick up a fist full, squeeze it and it will not fall apart. To much sand will not do this as it will have a tendency to be to loose and move away from a horse in a turn. It is important to also break up any hard pan that may exist under your top footing. If there is a hard pan ten to twelve inches under your perfect mix, it will cause slipping and possible falling during competition.

Good luck,
Marlene

Sincerely Linda from W.VA.

Marlene Responded:
Dear Linda

I am very proud of you for wanting to use polo wraps on your horse(s). I have used polo wraps on my horses legs for over fifteen years now and have not found anything else that comes close to working as well. The first step is to take all four polo wraps out of the package and unroll them. Now roll them back up by starting at the end where the Velcro is and wrapping the Velcro side into the roll. This way when you have completed the wrapping of your horses leg the Velcro comes out properly. The proper way to wrap your horses legs using polo wraps is to always wrap to the back of theleg, from the outside in. Another method to remember which direction is to stand next to your horse facing the same direction as he is and look at the hair on your arms. If you are wrapping the left legs, wrap to the left (the same direction as the hairs on your arms) and when on the right side, wrap to the right. Always begin to wrap half way between the ankle and the knee. Wrap own to and down around the ankle, and then back up the leg to just under the knee. I want to take one wrap at the top and be finished so I trim my polo wraps to the proper length in order to accomplish this. When wrapping, over lap by approx. half the width of the polo wrap.

After wrapping all four legs I always take my polo wrap tape (electrical tape) and place on complete wrap around each legover the Velcro to completely secure the wrap. I have never had my polo wraps come undone, ut I do not want to take the chance either.

It takes some practice at first, but I promise that once you get with it you will be pleased with the results. I can put on and take off my polo wraps faster than most barrel racers can install their big, bulky neoprene boots. Plus my horse is much more comfortable and properly wrapped.

Good luck,
Marlene